Each of the indigenous tribes of Taiwan, now recognised to total fourteen in number, has a distinctive culture of its own, marking it out from the others. The Paiwan, the third largest group living on the island, are no exception; ‘famous for their wood (and stone) carving techniques and their ancient beadwork designs’, as stated in Lonely Planet.
Found in the Pingtung and Taitung areas in the southern part of the island, the Paiwan traditionally had a strict social structure of chieftain and clan, the hierarchy being marked out by the distinctive motifs decorating their clothes and homes; the design of pots and human figures were the sole prerogative of the upper classes, while the pattern of the 'hundred pacer pit viper' was the mark of a chieftain and his clan, as noted by Cheryl Robbins, specifying as it does the mythological origins of the tribe . Upholding tribal traditions is still seen to be very much a part of these indigenous people’s lives as demonstrated by the rituals and ceremonies they still to this day conduct.
The Past Meets the Present
It is evident that tradition holds fast in the Paiwan tribe when witnessing a Paiwan wedding; traditional dress is worn, certain colours and ‘natural ornaments such as fresh flowers, eagle feathers, leopard/board teeth and certain types of fur’, so described by Rick Charette, denoting the hierarchy above the lower orders of the tribe. The effect is mesmerizing for the visitor. Color and originality, combined with a certain charged atmosphere of joyous if somewhat exuberant participation, create a memorable experience that one can imagine having been enacted since time immemorial.
Standing out from the Crowd
Predominantly, vibrant shades of orange, yellow, emerald green and red bedeck the higher echelons of the wedding guests, a testament to the belief that the Paiwan tribe’s costumes, along with those of the Rukai, are the most arresting of all the indigenous tribes in Taiwan, as noted in the Pingtung County Government information on the Paiwan. This, together with the intricate tribal motifs that can be seen on various items of clothing, created in the colourful beadwork for which they are renowned, help to create an atmosphere of distinction and originality.
The Endurance of Tradition
As observed in Taiwan Review, the significance of a Paiwan wedding in common with other such ceremonies around the world, is twofold: it carries the hope of the future happiness of the couple being married, and even more significantly it represents the opportunity of the continuation of tradition so that the people themselves can perpetuate the customs set by their ancestors. It is perhaps for this reason that Paiwan people usually marry within their own caste, ensuring the continuance of the social structure that forms the foundation of that particular tribe, although in "Digital Museum of Taiwan Indigenous Peoples", it states that intermarriage may take place between the different classes that exist in the tribe, but only after status and wealth have been taken into consideration.
Food Reflects Status
Typically of the Taiwanese, food features prominently at this kind of wedding. Eating is the main activity throughout the celebration, only interposed with various speeches from the happy couple and attendant representatives, although these are often secondary considerations to the serious business of consuming and imbibing. Toasts are frequently made to the newly married pair who tour the tables, pausing to raise glasses with friends and relatives at each in turn.
The different courses of delicacies being served can mount to a rather daunting fifteen in number, the size of the menu reflecting the status of the family whose celebration it is, within the community. The trick is not to take too much at the first serving, allowing space for the remainder of the feast. However, leftovers are not wasted but taken away in ‘doggy bags’ distributed freely to each table.
It is not until after the feasting is well and truly over that another favoured occupation of the Paiwan may be enjoyed.
Dancing the Day Away
In traditional style, after tables and chairs have been cleared away, the dancing begins. A long line of wedding guests begins to form. Everyone in close proximity is scooped up in its wake, joining arms to weave around the dance area in time to the music, in one long continuous line to form a circle. This activity can prove somewhat taxing after eating and drinking copiously, so water is handed out by helpful souls who position themselves inside the circle at strategic points, supposedly in order to prevent the collapse of the over indulgent!
A Memorable Event
When one has been to an aboriginal wedding, such as the Paiwan, it is an experience that will never be forgotten either for its originality or the welcome of its people who greet all with a warmth and graciousness second to none.
Sources
Lonely Planet Taiwan, Robert Storey, 4th Ed.Sept.1998, ISBN 0 86442 634 8, page 257
Cheryl Robbins/culture.tw, "Paiwan Tribe Respect for Ancestors and Art Traditions"
"Children of the Sun, Children of the Snake",Rick Charette,Travel Info"The Paiwan Tribe"
2005/05/01
Pingtung County Government, "Aboriginal Culture - The Paiwan Tribe - Material Culture - Costume"
Taiwan Review - "A Paiwan Wedding", 2003/08/01
Digital Museum of Taiwan Indigenous Peoples,"Paiwan"- 'Social Structure and Social Organizations'
Carol Elvidge - Having gained an MA in historical studies, Carol was able to broaden her horizons and has been living and working in Taiwan as a teacher ...
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